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HomeOur Mt Kinabalu Adventure
 

After years of back pain I had spine surgery in December 2006 – a laminectomy and instrumented fusion of vertebrae L5 – S1, in an effort to regain a quality of life that I had not had for a long time. In April 2007, some four months after my surgery, friends of ours decided to embark upon an adventure to climb Mt Kinabalu, in Borneo, in October 2007. At that time I never thought that it would be possible for me to attempt such a physical feat, so my wife, May, and I decided that we would not partake in this activity. However, in June I was feeling quite good and so we decided that, with a lot of exercising and training, I might be able to achieve this and so we made the decision to join our friends. I set this adventure as my goal to motivate me to carry out the physiotherapy rehabilitation and exercising necessary to strengthen my back following major surgery. However, a month after we made the decision to climb Mt Kinabalu I was diagnosed as having one of the pedicle screws inserted into my spine during the surgery in December, come loose necessitating further surgery to remove all pedicle screws and rods from my spine. The surgery occurred in July, only 3 months prior to climbing Mt Kinabalu. Could I still achieve my goal? Well, both my surgeon, Dr Eddie Chang, and my physiotherapist, Linda Wee, thought it possible with hard work and dedication to a physiotherapy and exercise regime. Well I made it - in October 2007 my wife and I joined seven other friends for an adventure that was the most physically challenging activity that we had ever undertaken – to climb Mt Kinabalu. This is our adventure……. Bruce

Introduction to Mt Kinabalu 
Mt Kinabalu is located in the province of Sabah, Malaysia, on the island of Borneo in South East Asia. Mt Kinabalu has a height 13,455 feet, or 4,095 metres, and is taller than Mt Cook in New Zealand, Mt Fuji in Japan and just a little shorter than Thunderbolt Peak in California. In fact, Mt Kinabalu is the highest mountain between the Himalayas and the snow-capped peaks of Papua New Guinea. The trail to the highest peak (Low’s Peak) is an 8.5 kilometre (5.25 mile) trek to the top, starting from Timpohon Gate.

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Day One 
 Our group of 9 (my wife May and I, Sue & Hugh and their son Dylan, Rosemary & Jack, Mark and Anita) commenced our journey in Singapore, at 4.30 am, when we traveled by taxi to the Malaysian city airport of Johor Barhu (1 hour by car) to catch the Air Asia flight to the city of Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah, Malaysia. Upon arrival in Kota Kinabalu we had a 2 hour minibus ride to the Kinabalu Park Lodge at the foot of Mt Kinabalu, where we would spend the night before commencing our climb the following day. We arrived at about 2 pm, however due to low cloud we could not catch a glimpse of the mountain. Fortunately by around 6pm, the cloud cleared and we were treated to spectacular views of the mountain and at this point it sunk in to us just how far and high out climb would be!
 

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Mt Kinabalu from Kinabalu lodge. The very small silver dot half way up the photo is Laban Rata – where we would climb to on the first day.
 

Day Two 
 We awoke at 6.30 am, had breakfast and headed to the park headquarters to register and pick up our two guides for the climb. Finally, by 9 am we departed park headquarters for the short bus ride to Timpohon Gate, where we would commence our climb. Fortunately the weather was superb.
 

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Breakfast at the lodge.
 

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Kinabalu Park headquarters.
 

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May and I, ready for the climb.
 

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Our team, from left to right: Hugh, Dylan, Sue, me, Rosemary, May, Jack, Anita, Mark and our two guides Johan and Johnny.
 

Our objective for the first day of the climb was to reach Laban Rata hut, at altitude 10,700 feet (3,250 metres). This climb is about 4.5 miles (7 kilometres) and typically takes 5 hours. For us, it was to take 5.25 hours. The climb is upwards all the way, with very few flat spots – basically thousands of steps, with some man-made wooden steps and the remainder natural rocky steps. There are 7 huts along the route, which offer shelter, toilet facilities and fresh mountain water. At the start, the weather was hot (Borneo is basically on the equator) and dry, however it was to rain for the last 30 minutes before reaching Laban Rata hut. Kinabalu Park has a vast range of flora and fauna so there was plenty to see along the way. Some 100 to 150 people attempt to climb the mountain each day (with some only making it to Laban Rata) so we were constantly passing people, or being passed by other people along the way.

 We reached Laban Rata at around 2.30 pm, wet and cold. After checking in and getting our room keys (6 bunks to a room - Laban Rata sleeps around 50 people) we could settle in to a hot cup of coffee and cooked lunch.  

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On the way up…endless steps. 

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…and more steps. 

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May, ever-smiling and never tired. 

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…and up…. 

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Resting at a hut at the 4 kilometre mark. 

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At the 5.0 kilometre mark, at altitude 3,001 metres or 9,900 feet. 

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Laban Rata hut, our home for two nights, altitude 10,700 feet (3,250 metres)  

Day Three 
 Our objective for this day was to climb the remaining 2.7 kilometres, from Laban Rata Hut to the summit – a climb that takes about 3 hours. The idea being to leave by 3 am, climb in the dark and reach the summit in time to watch the sun rise, before climbing back down again. Given that we were so tired from the first day’s climb, we went to bed at 6.30 pm, in order to get a good sleep before waking at 2 am. However, due to excitement, noise in the hut, and possibly some fear, none of us got any sleep at all.

So, at 2 am we arose from bed, dressed into warm, weatherproof clothing (the outside temperature at Laban Rata was 7 degrees Celsius, 45 degrees F and we were expecting the temperature at the summit to be a little above freezing), and headed for a hot coffee before meeting our guides for the climb. At 3 am we donned our woollen hats, gloves and head lamps (it was pitch black, with no moon) and commenced the climb.

The climb starts with hundreds of steep steps up the rock slope, sometimes at a 70 degree angle. The rock face is then scaled by rope for hundreds of metres before reaching the highest hut on the mountain (Sayat Sayat), at 7.2 kilometres and altitude 3,668 metres (12,105 feet). There is a checkpoint at this hut which records everyone ascending and descending, so that no one is lost on the mountain. From Sayat Sayat hut, the climb is all on rock slopes, using ropes for the last 1.5 kilometres to the summit. At this height, altitude sickness can be a real problem and both May and I were feeling a little nauseous, however we were not deterred and continued to the top.

Finally we reached the summit at around 6.30 am - 4,095 metres or 13,455 feet! Unfortunately there were clouds on the horizon so we were not able to witness a spectacular sunrise, however, the sheer joy of reaching the summit was good enough for me! The views were truly spectacular and the rock formations were awesome!  

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View up the rock face towards the summit, from Laban Rata – this is what we had to climb at 3 am the next morning! 

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The final assault on the summit – Low’s Peak. 

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We made it to the top!!! May and I standing on the summit. 

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Awesome views from the summit. 

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 Awesome views from the summit. 

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 Awesome views from the summit. 

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A group shot of us all, taken at the base of Low’s Peak after climbing back down a little way from the summit on Low’s Peak. 

The climb down was a little hairy! Truly, if I had known how dangerous the climb up in pitch darkness was, I am not sure whether I would have done it! Actually, it was not too bad, but as you can see from the photos below, it was still quite risky. 

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 Climbing down the rock face with the aid of ropes. 

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 Some of the track going across the rock face. 

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 On the way down – our overnight hut, Laban Rata, can be seen in the distance. 

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 May coming down the last wooden steps before Laban Rata. 

Day Four 
 All good things must come to an end and today was the day to depart Laban Rata hut and walk back all the way down to the Park headquarters. We left Laban Rata just after 8 am and arrived at the park headquarters around 12.30 pm – just in time for lunch. The trip down was uneventful – just thousands of steps to task our extremely weary legs! As we could take our time, we were able to observe more closely the diverse range of flora and fauna.
 

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 Stopped for a rest on the way down to the park headquarters – Me, Sue and Anita. 

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 A “Pitcher” plant. 

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 Wild rhododendrons. 

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 Wild berries. 

 After lunch we picked our certificates (proving we did, in fact, climb the mountain), departed the park by mini bus and headed back to the city of Kota Kinabalu, 2 hours drive away, where we were due to spend a well-earned luxurious night in the Le Meridien Hotel – superb it was too!

The following day we departed Kota Kinabalu by plane back to Johor Bahru and then by taxi back to Singapore – thereby ending an excellent week of physically demanding but hugely rewarding exertion! 

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 May exhausted and sleeping in luxury, at Le Meridien Hotel, Kota Kinabalu. 

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 Our last dinner in Kota Kinabalu before leaving for Singapore the following day. 

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 Just to prove that we did accomplish this feat – our certificates! 

 
Tips for Prospective Climbers 
 For those seeking to climb Mt Kinabalu, here are some tips:
 - Book well in advance (6 months or more) through a recognised travel agent in Kota Kinabalu (one that specialises in Mt Kinabalu climbing escapades).
 - October - February is the rainy season In Sabah so best to avoid this time of the year.
 - You need to be fit to climb this mountain! Unless you are quite fit, consider spending a second night at Laban Rata hut on the way down from the summit.
 - Make sure that you take a water bottle during each climbing stage. There is water available at places on the track, but you might like to use water purifying tablets in the water to make sure that it is safe to drink.
 - You will be ‘roughing it’ in the huts – don’t expect home comforts!
 - Altitude sickness is common! Read up on the internet about altitude sickness and make sure that you are prepared. You will definitely notice the lack of oxygen above the 3,000 metre mark up to the summit.
 - Use trekking poles/sticks (e.g. Leki trekking poles) – 2 are better than one, but one is definitely better than none!
 - Bring warm clothing (including woollen hat and gloves) and a rain jacket. There can be ice at the summit.
 - Good hiking boots are essential - make sure that they fit well and that you have good, warm socks.
 - If you want to see the sunrise from the summit, then you will be leaving Laban Ratu at around 3 am and walking in the dark on the most difficult part of the mountain. Make sure that you have a good torch (flashlight). I recommend the head mounted lamp (like the old miners used to use) – see picture below:
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If you would like to contact me, please email me at: bwswales@gmail.com

Acknowledgements
I would not have been able to complete this physical feat without the help of the following people:
 - My orthopaedic surgeon – Dr Eddie Chang, Orthopaedic & Traumatic Surgery Pte Ltd, without whom none of this would have been possible!
 - My physiotherapist – Linda Wee, Back & Neck Centre, for putting up with me and guiding me through hours and hours of physiotherapy rehab.
 - Our two Mt Kinabalu guides – Johan and Johnny, they are the greatest guides of Mt Kinabalu!

Most of all I would like to thank my wife, May, who gave me the support and encouragement to get through both surgeries and to tackle this challenge.

  

 Copyright 2007. Bruce Swales


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